Liana & John Benini

John and I thoroughly enjoyed the trip and have no hesitation in recommending it to all our friends. The last night camp site was perfect and so good would have loved another night here to unwind before heading back.  Carmel and Mark were excellent, patient and very professional guides an asset to your company.

I have written this piece which I hope you will share with Carmel and Mark as a tribute to the excellent tour and experience they contributed to.

An adventure wild…..

The intrigue and anticipation of meeting and participating in a unique adventure with fellow Kimberley explorers descended on a group of travelers early on 29 June 2016.

Apprehensive but encompassing visions  of what possibly lay ahead pounded as we all boarded the 4 wheel drive chariot, hosted and guided by Carmel and Mark for 12 days.

A buddy system devised to account our whereabouts was fruitful and entertaining almost as much as were  the yarns, tales, sing-a-longs, storytelling, autobiographies, future plans, family dynamics, jokes, facts and figures discussed; some regurgitated multiple times promoting fun, frivolity and close friendships, a bonding that none expected or prepared for.

The colours of the outback intoxicated, multiple shades of yellow and ochre teamed with the  mesmerising azure of the cloudless sky and inland oceans  hypnotised and enchanted us through our journey.

The scenery was awesomely spectacular. The beauty, pure and overwhelmingly spiritual. Every viewpoint totally overcome and framed by panoramic vistas. rugged ranges, deep ravines, gorges, rock formations, flora and fauna; unique, delicate, savage, narrow, grand and steeped in colour not even artists could create and photography could pay justice. Gob smacking sighs echoed our bewilderment and enticed our expectations. Each accomplished challenges, broke records and ticked off bucket lists.

The campfire gatherings allowed a reflection each day of what elated and what lay ahead whilst we breakfast at the crack of dawn and wined and dined under the stars, forging deeper bonds and reliving the aura of each sunrise and sunset.

The experience was void of any conflict or dissatisfaction and everything went to plan. The sound of zips echoed and repeated ringing out in the silence of the night and dawn  becoming an anthem of our tour.  Least we forget the rolling of the swags, just as much as the stunning scenery.

We swam with the freshies, conquered rocks, sank in mud, used ropes, entered caves, accomplished water crossings, beat the madding crowd for advantage points and mastered the art of open air toilets and hygiene unpretentiously. Bower birds built exclusive pretty abodes to attract mates. At night we were warned by barking owls and as we travelled brumbies, wild donkey and mules flickered their heads up to see who was approaching.

Mingled in the brush on the skirts of enormous stations were bulls, cows and calfs avoiding the spinifex and spear grasses that also caused anguish as we tried to hike past. The pretty but noisy black and sulphur crested cockatoos delighted. The red rose of the rosella bush and colourful native grevillea intoxicated the scenery in color and interest and of course there also lay the lethal red berries that are now synonymous with our tour.

The cat fish, turtles, green frogs, cane toads, olive Python and multitude of spiders bewildered and entertained us.

The flora was plentiful and beautiful. The iconic nut and rare flower of the Boab tree attracted photography, the bird flower, river red gum and ghost gums, bunches of limestone grasses, ribbon and black spinifex all danced in the breeze and coloured hillsides in hues of green and grey.

The mighty Fitzroy River enticed us and wet our curiosity and fascination for crocodiles. It was Tunnel Creek where for the first time we walked through croc infested waters which stirred our appetite whilst marvelling the prehistoric cave system. But more, much more was to come; Windjana Gorge, Bell Gorge, Emma Gorge and Manning Gorge. Spectacular, awesome and the challenge of conquering the ruggedness elated. The cool water, the pristine but rugged paths sided by lush grasses, trees,  smooth and menacing boulders and a via against steep and more gentle ridges climbed to arrive at the most beautiful water falls and swimming holes marvelled at as if we were the first to discover them.

At night we sat around a campfire identifying planets and tracking satellites. In the blue black sky multitudes of stars provided light and in the dark of the night the trip to the latrine became an opportunity to turnoff our head torch and become surrounded by the sounds of silence as we marvelled at the Milky Way in all its glory. So many stars, millions, never experienced. The barking owl bought our attention back to the purpose of our stroll whilst shooting stars ignited across the night sky.

The ancient indigenous nomads that created their stories through their rock inscriptions and drawings provided a spiritual connection to our journey, we reflected ancient passings of people through this land and took a moment to acknowledge and pay respect to the past, present and future inhabitants of this sacred land.

The Pentecost River another of the big four inscribed its importance over a region blessed with volumes of water to hydrate the dusty plains providing a welcoming oasis that spasmodically frames iconic homesteads such as Home Valley Station and El Questro before we continued our journey over the infamous Gibb River Road running through the land weaving jolting rocking and rolling to once again traverse the Pentecost. River crossings excited us.

We survived the mighty Gibb River Road not an easy feat but our guides provided skill and expertise to allow us this unique experience in the comfort and safety of a well equipped vehicle.

The sunsets over these magnificent plains each day were painted as beautiful as anything that could be created by the masters of art or architecture. Cathedral rays of colour blessed our arrivals from streaks of grey and blue to explosions of orange, yellow and red. Red, red earth and blue, blue sky greeted our journey only outdone by the sunsets and sunrises each day that exploded as we drank champagne and saluted its beauty.

Zebedee Falls teased romance as couples relaxed in warm waters along the pretty waterfall, fringed with ferns and palms. Throughout the journey many remnants of ancient tropical rainforest palms would peak through rugged dusty, rocky slopes and tracks to persist and thrive in a landscape that was once bigger than any ocean.

Kununurra bought us back to the reality of commercialism which was required to replenish our sources before we headed for the beautiful Argyle an inland ocean measured by how many Sydney Harbours it would hold currently sitting at 18. The Ord River weaving amidst vital mangroves teaming with life supporting a delicate ecosystem of flora and fauna we cruised through.

We tracked towards the Pumululu National Park and if we thought beauty and grandeur had already blessed us we were surprised and all expectations were surpassed by this visual cosmic aurora. The Bungle Bungles striated honeycomb domes, words and photography cannot describe or reproduce. A spiritual and visual awakening of grand proportions , the Dome walks, Picinniny Creek, Cathedral Gorge and Echinda Chasm rose above us as we walked often speechless at what we were witnessing. The helicopter flights allowed a birds eye view which enthralled us even more.

China Wall, Halls Creek and the Fitzroy Crossing provided a gorgeous, serene and relaxing finale as we cruised Geike Gorge a prehistoric reef system again supporting spectacular and diverse wildlife along mangroves.  A perfect final night under the stars and a swim. We reminisced, ensured contact details and made plans for reunions, we a group of newly found friendships, a group of people that have together shared and experienced so many personal milestones, and captured so many memories.

The Boab Tree, iconic throughout our travels as it did on our outset, at the Prison Tree now framed our arrival back to Broome, friendships, photos, notes and tales will forever keep our experiences safe and memories alive perhaps connecting us for time to come.

To quote the message at the gate of Home Valley Station that provided a poignant reminder to a motto well served

…we are all visitors to this time, this place. We are just passing through. Our purpose is to observe, to learn, to grown. And then we return home…..

The Kimberley truly once the garden of Eden, remote, pure and rugged  you evoked our spiritual, physical and emotional being even if for a short moment in time and we take from you a truly adventure wild.

Liana

Rating 5/5